A day in Uruguay. A night in Buenos Aires.

So I spent yesterday (being after midnight and all) in Colonia, Uruguay. It's a pretty little colonial town with cobbled streets (have you picked a theme yet?), boganvillia, museums and craft shops. Being a tourist spot and only a short ferry ride from Argentina all the stores (even the little deli's) accept three types of currency thus making it slightly confusing when you want to know the price of anything.

Anyhow got there about midday and went for a stroll around the old fort. There were several small museums (each with a guy dressed in colonial costumes out the front), plus some ruins. Then explored the rest of the town looking at the pretty buildings and also went down to the river. The weather wasn't the best today, overcast, a spot of rain, but still warm. The river, as a result, was rather choppy and rough but still nice to walk along. Did get some sun and a breeze later in the day that was nice as well. The rivers edge had some interesting rock pools and trees.

It's quiet simmilar to Olinda in that Colonia is a bit of a centre for arty people with several galleries and people selling handmade products. And there is an arts fair which is more touristy than the other areas, but still worth walking about.

After a extra long trip on the boat back. For reasons I could not understand (no really, I don't think they gave a reason, even in Spanish) we sat in the harbour for an extra 40 minutes with everyone getting more and more techy. I decided to go out to a nice little vegie place in the northern part of Buenos Aires. Which was open and still full of people at 2330 (makes noises about a city that doesn't die at 9pm). Asian food and cheery staff. I had seen it advertised that the staff sing to the patrons, but there was no singing tonight. On the ride back in the taxi I was treated to a great sight. We were heading towards the Obelisco (the giant, pointy, phallic monument) which was lit up (as giant, pointy, phallic monuments are at night) and the whole street down was alive. People walking around, places to eat still open, theatres, lights and just a touch of neon. Given that most of the nightclubs are currently closed here (due to a fire safety enquiry because of a fire 3 weeks ago that killed almost 200 people) it is nice to know that there is so much to do at the more ungodly hours and that there are people who do things other than club during this time. It was rather simply something special.

And the lights are pretty :P
(I think I have used a few too many brackets here)

Good Air to you.

So I faffed about Rio for a few days where the weather was less than desirable. Yay for the wet season! Still warm though. Ended up looking like a water rat by getting totally drenched one evening whilst going on a walk and happened to be wearing my palest, thinnest top which was slightly embarrassing. Caught the bus and spent a day in Sao Paulo.

Went with some people to one of those meat on a stick places that Brazil is famous for (given I had been in the country for 2 and a half months I figured I may as well suss out the salad range). What happens is there is a huge salad bar type thing with different vegetables, rice, beans, chips etc which you can help yourself to. Then waiters come around to your table with big skewers of meat and offer you bits cut straight off onto your plate. Roast chicken, beef (rare, medium and well done), chicken heart, sausage, pork, you name it, it was there. It did get a bit ridiculous after they came around about the 20th time despite everyone feeling totally stuffed and all politely declining (again). As I was the only person who declined every time the waiter came around clearly there was something wrong with me and one wait er cut off a slice and placed it directly onto my plate despite my multiple polite "No, obrigada senor". Charming. I was well done at this point and someone else ate the bit but to be totally honest it was more than just a little bit gross.

Slept the following night at the airport and flew here to the city of Good Air early on Sunday morning.

Buenos Aires is often labeled as being the most European of South American cities. And part of me can see why. There are many statutes, memorials and parks. The architecture is rather funky. There is a certain elegance to the tango (which I am yet to attempt to perform). Lots of people speak English (and I'm trying to learn Spanish). Oh and the good air doesn't seem to extend to any enclosed space. Smoking is acceptable everywhere. They don't even have the health warning labels on the packets.

Speaking of cigarette warning labels my favourite was one from Brazil that was of a half used cigarette with the ashed bit curled over and the written warning telling you about how smoking leads to impotence.

I arrived last Sunday morning on minimal sleep but decided to clean up and go out to the art and antiques market that was going on, being the market slut that I am. It was well worth it. The market focuses around Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, however the surrounding streets are full of buskers (I *really* am begining to appreciate the piano accordion), street performance, market stalls and tango dancers. It had a really lovely feel to it. The fine weather (clear skies, low 30s, low humidity) also helped.

Spent the past few days sorting out the changes to my ticket, taking Spanish lessons and wandering around San Telmo and Centro. The main pedestrian mall has been full of people but in a pleasant way and the few squares and parks are people friendly too. Am glad I am here for awhile there are heaps of different areas I am looking to explore.

There was a costume party at the sister hostel to the place I'm staying last night. Due to the fact that costumes are high on the list of things for the average backpacker to carry they supplied a few bits and pieces for those of us who made that difficult choice between first aid kit and fancy dress. There were streamers which I used to go as a quasi anime character and a variety of hats, horns, masks and the like. Wasn't too bad but I left when it got too smokey for my liking.

Tonight there is a Australia Day Party with the expected "piss up by the pool" and rumors of sausages in bread with tomato sauce. There isn't an actual pool at the hostel so a paddling pool is being brought in. Fosters may be hard to find (but lets face it no self respecting Australian would be caught drinking it). And no lamb. I did wish the nice man at the Qantas office a Happy Australia Day though.

Semi surreal comment from last night: "I'm going to Peru next Friday." And I am. How very cool.

Less than two months before I get back to Perth, how terribly scary. Any Sydney-siders wanting to catch up mid March, drop me a line.

Leaving Olinda.

Am back in Rio after 40+ hours on the bus. My last few days in Olinda were rather enjoyable, despite the weather being less than it´s usual glorious self.

Spent last wednesday night out in the Forroe club, though left somewhat early due to smoke, exhaustion and the need to get up early in the morning. Had an enjoyable class on Thursday followed by another dancing lesson.

We did Calypso and Frevo dancing. Calypso being much more difficult than one could imagine and Frevo leaving my thighs sore for several days. Frevo is the local dance of Recife and involves lots of jumping up and down and twirling a little umbrella. All good (if a little painful) fun.

Patrick and I discovered that the revolution had indeed begun and didn´t have any students on Friday. I must point out this is due to a dispute over bus tickets (or lack thereof) which are part of their wages than anything else. So we pottered around old Olinda for a bit. A few of us went to a nice little Italian place for dinner which was enjoyable then hung about São Pedro square for the evening.

Caught the bus on Saturday afternoon and arrive in Rio early yesterday afternoon. As far as long bus trips go it wasn´t too bad.

It has occured to me that my time in Olinda is the longest I have spent in any one place in almost a year. The previous longest was mid December 2003- early March 2004 which I spent in Perth, which is kinda scary. I met some really lovely people, saw some really funky things and found a climate type that my body seems to enjoy.

UPDATE: I forgot to add earlier that walking back home last Friday (at about midnight) one of the 24hour funeral parlours was totally going off with loud music, dancing and many festivities. Who says the dead can´t party on?

Volunteers, Carnaval, Monkeys and of course the Fish.

Last Friday a new group of volunteers arrived, fourteen to be exact thus more than doubling the number of us here in Olinda at the moment. It´s a bit of a shock and everything feels a bit like a school trip when we all go out but they all seem to be pretty cool.

Spend last Saturday at Intamaracá which is a small island just off the coast near Forte Orange, north of Olinda. Whilst the skies looked a bit grim to start with it turned out to be a gorgeous day, blue skies, white fluffy clouds, the Atlantic, shade on the beach, scorching sand and fishes.

Once we caught a cab to Forte Orange (which was only slightly more expensive and heaps quicker than four buses) we took a short boat ride to the reef where we snorkeled for about an hour. The fish were amazing, lots of different types though the main ones were the zebra striped ones with a patch of yellow (okay so I´m not too crash hot on the names of them) there were quite a few sea urchins too. It should also be pointed out that there was a floating bar at the snorkeling spot. This was a guy in a dinghy with an umbrella and two eskies full of drinks, which was rather funky. I also discovered that you can get prescription snorkeling masks thanks to Bruce (new shiney volunteer from my corner of the planet) which I was very impressed with. The rest of the day was spent relaxing on the beach in the shade chatting to people. Most enjoyable.

Speaking of fish, Bill Bryson´s book about the history of most things (or something like that) has been doing the rounds. Apparently it has a really good section on the fishing industry and the fact most of the world´s fish stocks have been depleated. There´s at least one more person who doesn´t eat prawns nows. I´m finding it very amusing watching someone else guilt trip prawn eaters over dinner.

I spent Sunday afternoon walking around old Olinda which was rather relaxing and managed to catch several drumming performances on the street as well as a Carnaval rehearsal. Got to see a full Carnaval drumming band in full gear practicing as well as some girls in the traditional big hooped skirts dancing. This will continue ever Sunday until Carnaval. Dinner was a the local Chinese where I got tofu for the first time in over a month- joy for simple pleasures.

Yesterday morning I spent at my project. Not alot to report on that I guess, it´s pottering along well. The afternoon I accompanied Kate to the soup kitchen where we threw the Christmas party a few weeks back. We played more games with the kids for a few hours in the afternoon, mostly ball games such as soccer, a variation of volleyball and piggy in the middle. I also learnt a new game where you stand in a circle and throw the ball randomly to each other on the fourth throw you have to throw the ball as a hard and fast at someone, if they catch it or dodge they stay in, if they get hit they go out. Those Favella kids can really throw hard!

Today I skipped out on my project and went with Lizzie to her project in the Botanic Gardens. The gardens are not a formal, well manicured garden but rather a piece of native forest with a small museum, a herb garden and some paths through it. Apparently quiet a few school trips go there though and it is lovely to walk through there and listen to all the sounds. We got there early and spent the first hour weeding the plant beds in the medicinal herb garden before having a break and split a fresh from the forest jackfruit for morning tea (which was rather yummy). Continued with weeding for a bit longer then found Bruno the supervisor, or rather he found us. He´s a really lovely biology student who showed me around and seems to know everyone. We spent some time collecting seeds that had fallen in the forest and would be replanted and chatting. There were also the cutest monkeys who live in the forest and were happy enough to accept the crackers we offered (though a few preferred the jackfruit that was already broken open) and stopped long enough for Lizzie and I to get a couple of pictures.

The afternoon was spent at the zoological gardens, a museum which was mostly closed (but had a very funky display of Carnaval costumes that was open), a old colonial house and an art museum. Bruno kindly showed us around and introduced us to all the people he knew at these places. It was a very long, but fun afternoon.

We caught a very crowded bus back to the hotel most of which I spent holding on for dear life to the rail that was above my head, just within reach. I am sure my arms are long from the stretching that happened. Dinner, then an intensive almost two hour dance class. Slightly exhausted now.

I leave on the weekend, am going to miss this place, but it´s well time I saw something different.

New Years and that sort of thing.

So I welcomed in the New Year 11 hours later than normal at a house party which is somewhat traditional for me. The catch was that most of the conversations for the evening were not in my native language and there was much more dancing and music than usual.

Richardo (one of the waiters at the place I am staying) kindly invited the volunteers to a NYE party at his mother-in-law to be´s house. Nine of us headed out at about 11pm for the party and whilst we were the only gringo´s there everyone was very welcoming and we had a great time. There were fire crackers in the surrounding streets, much dancing, much alcohol and much food. And rather surprisingly much conversation. I got kidnapped briefly by the kids (who were terribly cute I might add) and was interrogated on the details of my family, Australia and what I did.

At one point I was summonsed over to prove that I was a vegan (or "vegetariana totale") I answered the usual questions of what I did and didn´t eat and why. This is fairly common, I´ve been the first vegan people have encountered even at home. I am rather chuffed that I could have the conversation in a language other than English. Trying to ask for a bus ticket is another story.

We left at about 4am for central Recife for the end of a street concert and wandered around chatting to people and having much fun. I chatted alot to my new roommate, Lizzie who is from London and is working out at the Botanical Gardens. Hannah claimed she was from Moldvania only to get the response "I like your country" which resulted in many drunken giggles. We stumbled home from the bus stop at around 8am, and collapsed for most of the day.

All in all a good new years.

This year has been pretty good so far, despite the fact that there was a flash downpour on Monday night (thankfully we were undercover) and Tuesday was mostly overcast. It´s still warm and has returned to sunny. Patrick, one of the other volunteers, has started out on the teaching project in the mornings with me and it´s going really well. Beach is planned for the weekend.

I am here until the end of next week and my time in Olinda has gone awfully quickly. I can´t believe I´ll be back in Perth in a little more than 2 months.

Oh and a Christmas picture courtesy of Borisontour to prove I´m still alive.